Öz
Kumaşlar, deriler ve suni malzemeler yapısal bakımdan farklı özellikler göstermektedirler. Örneğin kumaş materyali eğer dokumaysa ipliklerin belli bir sistemle birbirlerine dik bir açı ile bağlanmasıyla oluşmakta, diğer bir yandan deri ise tamamen doğal olarak kompleks kolajen liflerinin kendilerine özgü ve alanına bağlı olarak farklı açılar ile bağlanmasıyla oluşmaktadır. Ayrıca suni malzemeler ise tamamen farklı olarak PVC ve PU kullanılarak üretilmektedirler. Bu yapısal farklılıklar özellikle mukavemet özelliklerine doğrudan etki etmektedir ve bu nedenle Türk Standartları Enstitüsü (TSE) tekstil ve deri malzemeler için farklı test yöntemleri sunmaktadır. Bu standartlar arasında test numunelerinin şekli/boyutu, çene aralığı, hızı vb. farklılıklar mevcuttur. Derinin pahalı ve sınırlı bir alana sahip olması nedeniyle deri standartlarının numune boyutları tekstil standardında belirtilen boyutlardan daha küçüktür ancak tekstil standartlarındaki numune boyutları ipek, gümüş katkılı kumaşlar, vicuna vb. pahalı tekstil malzemeleri için sorun olabilmektedir. Bu çalışmanın amacı, tekstil ve deri standart yöntemlerinden elde edilen sonuçlar arasındaki farklılıkları incelemektir. Çalışma kapsamında, hem deri hem de tekstil standart metotları uygulanarak iki farklı tabaklanmış giysilik derinin, bir suni malzemenin ve iki farklı dokuma kumaşın çekme mukavemeti, uzama değerleri ve yırtılma yükü değerleri elde edilmiştir. Çekme mukavemeti ve uzama değerlerinde iki metot arasında tüm materyallerde istatistiki olarak fark çıkarken, yırtılma yükü değerlerinde fark gözlemlenmemiştir.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Kaynakça
- Balci, H. and Babaarslan O., 2005. Test Hızının Kumaş Kopma Mukavemeti ve Uzaması Sonuçları Üzerindeki Etkisi. Tekstil ve Teknik, 238-242.
- Bienkiewicz, K., 1983. Physical Chemistry of Leather Making. Krieger Publishing Company, Malabar, FL.
- Breen, D.E., House, D.H., Getto, P.H., 1992. A Physically-based Particle Model of Woven Cloth. Visual Computer, 8, 264-277.
- Case, J., Chilver, A., Ross, C.T.F., 1999. Strength of materials and structures. Arnold - Hodder Headline Group, London.
- Covington, A.D., 2008. Quo Vadit Chromium? The Future Direction of Tannage. Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 103, 7-23.
- Daniels, R. and Landmann, W., 2006. Flat and predictable leather, Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture. World Trades Publishing Limited, Liverpool.
- Fathima, N.N., Balaraman M., Rao J.R., Nair B.U., 2003. Effect of Zirconium(IV) Complexes on the Thermal and Enzymatic Stability of Type I Collagen. Journal of Inorganic Biochemistry, 95, 47-54.
- Gurcum, B.H., 2010. Defining the Correlation Between Subjective Assessment and Some of the Physical Properties of the Woven Fabrics. Textile and Apparel, 20 (2), 101-108.
- Gurkan Unal, P., Taskin, C., 2007. The Effect of Weave and Densities on Tensile Strength of 100% Polyester Fabrics. Textile and Apparel, 17 (2), 115-118.
- Kanth, S.V., Venba, R., Madhan, B., Chandrababu, N.K., Sadulla, S., 2009. Cleaner Tanning Practices for Tannery Pollution Abatement: Role of Enzymes in Eco-Friendly Vegetable Tanning. Journal of Cleaner Production, 17, 507-515.
- Kontou, E. and Farasoglou, P., 1998. Determination of the True Stress-strain Behaviour of Polypropylene. Journal of Material Science, 33, 147-153.
- Madhan B., Aravindhan, R., Ranjithakumar, N., Venkiah, V., Rao, J.R., Nair, B.U., 2007. Combination Tanning Based on Tara: An Attempt to Make Chrome-Free Garment Leather. Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 102, 198-204.
- Meyer, M., Dietrich, S., Schulz, H., Mondschein, A., 2021. Comparison of the Technical Performance of Leather, Artificial Leather, and Trendy Alternatives. Coatings, 11 (2), 226.
- Mutlu, M.M., Ork, N., Yegin O., Bas S., 2014. Mapping The Variations of Tensile Strength Over the Area of Sheepskin Leather. Annals of the University of Oradea Fascicle of Textiles Leatherwork, 15, 157-162.
- Nalbat, S., Onem, E., Basaran, B., Yorgancioglu A., Yilmaz, O., 2016. Effect of Finishing Density on the Physico-Mechanical Properties of Leather. Journal of Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 100, 84-89.
- Onem E., 2018. Quality Properties of Leather Produced in Water and Supercritical Fluid (SCF) Media. Journal of CO₂ Utilization, 23, 75-79.
- Onem, E., Yorgancioglu, A., Karavana, H.A., Yilmaz, O., 2017. Comparison of Different Tanning Agents on the Stabilization of Collagen via Differential Scanning Calorimetry. Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry, 129, 615-622.
- Ork Efendioglu, N., Ozgunay, H., Mutlu, M.M., 2019. Comparison of Conventional and Image Analysis Drapeability Test Methods for Leather. V. International Leather Engineering Congress (IAFLI), 85-88.
- Ork, N., Ozgunay, H., Mutlu, M.M., Ondogan Z., 2014. Comparative Determination of Physical and Fastness Properties of Garment Leathers Tanned with Various Tanning Materials for Leather Skirt Production. Textile and Apparel, 24 (4), 414-418.
- Ork, N., Ozgunay, H., Mutlu, M.M., Ondogan Z., 2017. Manufacture of Leather Skirt from Garment Leathers Tanned with Various Tanning Materials and Evaluation of Visual Properties. Textile and Apparel, 27 (1), 91-97.
- Ozdil, N. and Ozcelik, G., 2006. A Study on Comparison of Tearing Strength Test Methods of Fabrics. Textile and Apparel, 16 (3), 174-179.
- Phebe, K., Thanikaivelan, P., Krishnaraj, K., Chandrasekaran, B., 2011. Influence of Mechanical Properties of Sheep Nappa Leathers on Seam Efficiency. Journal of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 95 (1), 16-22.
- Šomođi, Ž., Zdraveva, E., Brnada, S., 2019. Analysis of Woven Fabric in Asymmetric Tensile Loading Using Parabolic Approximation of Tensile Nonlinearity. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 14, 1-8.
- Sujica, M.Z. and Pinteric, A., 1998. Numerical Evaluation of Fabric Construction Parameters. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10 (3/4), 191-200.
- Thanikaivelan, P., Shelly, D.C., Ramkumar, S.S., 2006. Gauge Length Effect on the Tensile Properties of Leather. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 101, 1202-1209.
- Urbanija, V. and Gersak, J., 2004. Impact of The Mechanical Properties of Nappa Clothing Leather on the Characteristics of Its Use. Journal of The Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 88, 181-190.
- Utkun, E. and Ondogan, Z., 2011. Comparison of Jacket Production Processes Designed by Fabric Materials and Leather. Pamukkale University Journal of Engineering Sciences, 17 (2), 79-85.
Öz
Fabrics, leathers and artificial materials show structurally different properties. For example, if a fabric material is woven, it is formed by connecting the threads at a right angle to each other with a certain system; on the other hand, leather is formed by naturally binding complex collagen fibers with specific and different angles depending on their area. Also, artificial materials are produced disparately using PVC and PU. These structural differences directly affect the mechanical properties of materials and therefore Turkish Standards Institute (TSE) offers different test methods for textile and leather materials. There are some differences between these standards according to the shape/size of test samples, jaw length, speed, etc. Since leather is an expensive material and has a limited area, sample sizes of leather standards are smaller than the dimensions specified in the textile standard; however, sample sizes in textile standards can be a problem for some expensive textile materials e.g., silk, silver-added fabrics, vicuna, etc. The aim of this study is to examine the differences between the results obtained from the textile and leather standard methods. In this scope, the tensile strength, elongation and tear load values of the two different tanned garment leathers, artificial material, and two different kinds of woven fabrics were obtained by applying both leather and textile standard methods. While there was a statistical difference between the two methods in tensile strength and elongation values for all materials, no difference was observed in tear load values.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Leather Fabric Artificial Material Mechanical Properties Standards
Teşekkür
The authors wish to thank Canbol Leather Company for providing materials, Assoc. Prof. Dr. Gamze Süpüren Mengüç, MSc. Ata Kianoosh, MSc. Ahmet Oğuzhan Deliktaş and Leather Engineer Ulaş Kutlu for their valuable efforts in this study.
Kaynakça
- Balci, H. and Babaarslan O., 2005. Test Hızının Kumaş Kopma Mukavemeti ve Uzaması Sonuçları Üzerindeki Etkisi. Tekstil ve Teknik, 238-242.
- Bienkiewicz, K., 1983. Physical Chemistry of Leather Making. Krieger Publishing Company, Malabar, FL.
- Breen, D.E., House, D.H., Getto, P.H., 1992. A Physically-based Particle Model of Woven Cloth. Visual Computer, 8, 264-277.
- Case, J., Chilver, A., Ross, C.T.F., 1999. Strength of materials and structures. Arnold - Hodder Headline Group, London.
- Covington, A.D., 2008. Quo Vadit Chromium? The Future Direction of Tannage. Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 103, 7-23.
- Daniels, R. and Landmann, W., 2006. Flat and predictable leather, Back to Basics: A Framework for Leather Manufacture. World Trades Publishing Limited, Liverpool.
- Fathima, N.N., Balaraman M., Rao J.R., Nair B.U., 2003. Effect of Zirconium(IV) Complexes on the Thermal and Enzymatic Stability of Type I Collagen. Journal of Inorganic Biochemistry, 95, 47-54.
- Gurcum, B.H., 2010. Defining the Correlation Between Subjective Assessment and Some of the Physical Properties of the Woven Fabrics. Textile and Apparel, 20 (2), 101-108.
- Gurkan Unal, P., Taskin, C., 2007. The Effect of Weave and Densities on Tensile Strength of 100% Polyester Fabrics. Textile and Apparel, 17 (2), 115-118.
- Kanth, S.V., Venba, R., Madhan, B., Chandrababu, N.K., Sadulla, S., 2009. Cleaner Tanning Practices for Tannery Pollution Abatement: Role of Enzymes in Eco-Friendly Vegetable Tanning. Journal of Cleaner Production, 17, 507-515.
- Kontou, E. and Farasoglou, P., 1998. Determination of the True Stress-strain Behaviour of Polypropylene. Journal of Material Science, 33, 147-153.
- Madhan B., Aravindhan, R., Ranjithakumar, N., Venkiah, V., Rao, J.R., Nair, B.U., 2007. Combination Tanning Based on Tara: An Attempt to Make Chrome-Free Garment Leather. Journal of the American Leather Chemists Association, 102, 198-204.
- Meyer, M., Dietrich, S., Schulz, H., Mondschein, A., 2021. Comparison of the Technical Performance of Leather, Artificial Leather, and Trendy Alternatives. Coatings, 11 (2), 226.
- Mutlu, M.M., Ork, N., Yegin O., Bas S., 2014. Mapping The Variations of Tensile Strength Over the Area of Sheepskin Leather. Annals of the University of Oradea Fascicle of Textiles Leatherwork, 15, 157-162.
- Nalbat, S., Onem, E., Basaran, B., Yorgancioglu A., Yilmaz, O., 2016. Effect of Finishing Density on the Physico-Mechanical Properties of Leather. Journal of Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 100, 84-89.
- Onem E., 2018. Quality Properties of Leather Produced in Water and Supercritical Fluid (SCF) Media. Journal of CO₂ Utilization, 23, 75-79.
- Onem, E., Yorgancioglu, A., Karavana, H.A., Yilmaz, O., 2017. Comparison of Different Tanning Agents on the Stabilization of Collagen via Differential Scanning Calorimetry. Journal of Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry, 129, 615-622.
- Ork Efendioglu, N., Ozgunay, H., Mutlu, M.M., 2019. Comparison of Conventional and Image Analysis Drapeability Test Methods for Leather. V. International Leather Engineering Congress (IAFLI), 85-88.
- Ork, N., Ozgunay, H., Mutlu, M.M., Ondogan Z., 2014. Comparative Determination of Physical and Fastness Properties of Garment Leathers Tanned with Various Tanning Materials for Leather Skirt Production. Textile and Apparel, 24 (4), 414-418.
- Ork, N., Ozgunay, H., Mutlu, M.M., Ondogan Z., 2017. Manufacture of Leather Skirt from Garment Leathers Tanned with Various Tanning Materials and Evaluation of Visual Properties. Textile and Apparel, 27 (1), 91-97.
- Ozdil, N. and Ozcelik, G., 2006. A Study on Comparison of Tearing Strength Test Methods of Fabrics. Textile and Apparel, 16 (3), 174-179.
- Phebe, K., Thanikaivelan, P., Krishnaraj, K., Chandrasekaran, B., 2011. Influence of Mechanical Properties of Sheep Nappa Leathers on Seam Efficiency. Journal of the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 95 (1), 16-22.
- Šomođi, Ž., Zdraveva, E., Brnada, S., 2019. Analysis of Woven Fabric in Asymmetric Tensile Loading Using Parabolic Approximation of Tensile Nonlinearity. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 14, 1-8.
- Sujica, M.Z. and Pinteric, A., 1998. Numerical Evaluation of Fabric Construction Parameters. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10 (3/4), 191-200.
- Thanikaivelan, P., Shelly, D.C., Ramkumar, S.S., 2006. Gauge Length Effect on the Tensile Properties of Leather. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 101, 1202-1209.
- Urbanija, V. and Gersak, J., 2004. Impact of The Mechanical Properties of Nappa Clothing Leather on the Characteristics of Its Use. Journal of The Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists, 88, 181-190.
- Utkun, E. and Ondogan, Z., 2011. Comparison of Jacket Production Processes Designed by Fabric Materials and Leather. Pamukkale University Journal of Engineering Sciences, 17 (2), 79-85.
Ayrıntılar
| Birincil Dil | İngilizce |
|---|---|
| Konular | Giyilebilir Malzemeler |
| Bölüm | Araştırma Makaleleri \ Research Articles |
| Yazarlar | |
| Yayımlanma Tarihi | 30 Aralık 2023 |
| Gönderilme Tarihi | 30 Ekim 2022 |
| Kabul Tarihi | 6 Aralık 2023 |
| Yayımlandığı Sayı | Yıl 2023 Cilt: 11 Sayı: 4 |
